If you've spent any time looking into natural oils for relaxed hair, you've probably heard the term penetrating oil.
But what exactly does that mean? And is a penetrating oil different from the oil you use to seal in moisture?
Yes.
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Some natural oils can interact with and move into the hair fiber rather than simply sitting on the surface. These oils are often used as pre-poo treatments, in hot oil treatments, and as part of routines for dry or chemically treated hair.
I've used several of these oils over the years, with coconut oil being one of my favorites.
In this guide, I'll explain what penetrating oils are, which oils are commonly included in this category, what they may do for relaxed hair, and the different ways you can use them in your routine.
What are penetrating oils?
Penetrating oils are natural oils that can work past the hair cuticle and enter the cortex layer of the hair shaft rather than just coating the outside of the strand.
You'll often see coconut oil, avocado oil, olive oil, and argan oil included in lists of penetrating oils for hair. However, that doesn't mean all of these oils work exactly the same way or have the same benefits.
Which oils are considered penetrating oils?
While coconut oil, avocado oil, olive oil, and argan oil fall into this category of hair oils, they all have different characteristics. As a result, the oil that works best for you may not be the one that works best for someone else.
Coconut oil
Coconut oil is probably the most well-known penetrating oil for hair.
It's particularly interesting because research has found that it can reduce protein loss from hair, including relaxed hair.
I’ve used coconut oil primarily as a pre-poo before shampooing. It can also be used in hot oil treatments or mixed into a deep conditioner.
Avocado oil
Avocado oil is another oil commonly used in hair care and is a source of fatty acids and other naturally occurring compounds.
I like it as an option when I want an oil that feels conditioning. It can be used for pre-poo treatments, hot oil treatments, deep conditioning, or sealing moisture.
Read more: How Avocado Oil Can Benefit Relaxed Hair
Olive oil
Olive oil has been used in hair care for a long time and is another oil you'll commonly see included in lists about natural oils to use or even as an ingredient in hair products.
It's generally richer and heavier than some of the other oils in this category, so it may be especially appealing if your hair tends to feel dry or coarse.
What can penetrating oils do for relaxed hair?
Penetrating oils may be useful in a relaxed hair routine for several reasons.
They can help reduce protein loss
This is one of the most interesting benefits of coconut oil specifically.
Hair contains keratin, a protein that contributes to the structure and strength of the strand. Research has found that coconut oil can reduce protein loss from hair, particularly when used as a pre-wash treatment.
That doesn't mean coconut oil replaces a protein treatment. It simply means it may help protect the protein that's already part of your hair.
They can help soften dry hair
These oils can make hair feel smoother and softer by reducing friction and improving how the strands interact with each other.
That can be especially helpful when you're detangling or manipulating dry hair.
They can help reduce moisture loss
One important distinction: oil isn't the same thing as moisture.
Water and water-based products provide moisture. An oil can then help slow moisture loss by forming a hydrophobic layer around the hair.
So if your hair feels dry, applying oil to completely dry hair isn't necessarily going to solve the problem.
I prefer to think of oil as the step that comes after moisturizing rather than the moisturizer itself.
They can add shine
This is one of the simplest benefits of using natural oils.
A small amount of oil can smooth the appearance of the hair and add shine, especially after styling.
Just be careful with the amount. A little can make your hair look shiny; too much can make it look greasy and weighed down.
How to use penetrating oils on relaxed hair
You don't need to use penetrating oils every day but can find ways to incorporate them throughout or in key places of your hair regimen.
Use one as a pre-poo
This is probably my favorite way to use a penetrating oil.
Apply the oil to your hair before shampooing and allow it to sit for a while before washing.
Coconut oil is particularly useful here because of the research showing that it can reduce protein loss from hair during washing.
A pre-poo can also make your hair feel softer and easier to handle before you get in the shower.
Use one for a hot oil treatment
You can use a single oil or combine oils depending on what you like.
Warm the oil gently rather than making it hot, then apply it to your hair and scalp as appropriate. You don't need extremely hot oil to get the benefits, and you definitely don't want to burn your scalp.
Add a small amount to your deep conditioner
If your hair responds well to oils, you can add a small amount to the portion of deep conditioner you're using for that wash day.
I prefer doing this with a single-use amount rather than mixing oil into the entire container. That way, you can adjust the amount based on how your hair feels.
Use a small amount after moisturizing
Although I generally think of lighter, non-penetrating oils as better choices for sealing moisture, you can experiment with a small amount of a penetrating oil after applying a water-based moisturizer.
The key word here is small. If your hair starts feeling coated, greasy, or difficult to style, you're probably using more oil than you need.
Things to keep in mind using natural oils on relaxed hair
Can you use oils as a hair heat protectant?
You may see natural oils recommended as heat protectants because some oils have high smoke points. I used to believe this. Well, my opinion has changed.
I wouldn't rely on a natural oil alone to protect relaxed hair from a blow dryer, flat iron, or curling iron. I realized that using something to cook with at high temps probably isn’t protecting my hair at high temps. Thankfully I didn’t use these as heat protectants.
I have been and will be using a dedicated hair product formulated specifically to be a heat protectant.
What if penetrating oils make your hair feel dry?
Some people find that natural oils, coconut oil in particular, leaves their hair feeling stiff or dry. If that happens, don't assume you need to use more of it. Try using less, using it only as a pre-poo, or switching to another oil.
Also, don’t use the oil on dry hair unless you’re planning to shampoo soon after. Putting something that can seal in moisture on dry hair is just sealing in dryness.
Are you currently using any of these oils on your hair?
References: http://blackgirllonghair.com/2011/10/penetrating-oils-vs-coating-oils-which-are-better/, http://www.naturalhairrules.com/3-best-oils-for-natural-hair/
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